Monday, 24 June 2013

Bibliography

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Evaluation

Discovering an urban explorer online (these are people who find and explore derelict buildings), who was based in Preston, I was able to discover some new buildings that I have never seen before. Looking through his collection of photographs the brewery at Lancaster stood out to me and wasn’t out of my reach. From then I contacted him to find out its location and more about the building itself, he was very wary of telling me anything until I showed him some of my previous work, urban explorers like to keep their finds private. This is what started off my whole FMP project.
Initially in my proposal and samples I was working with cask ale logos and signs, but after trialling this for about a week I decided that it would be far more interesting to relate my work directly to the building. I had used stencil print of text from these beer mats to create typography pieces, then realised that the typography in the brewery could be used in a similar way.
In my first samples I used imagery of the outside of the building and stencil printed handmade stencils over the top, this was extremely time consuming and would not have worked on a larger scale. To resolve this I made a select few stencils and created a print screen full of text from my primary photographs. This meant that I could produce pieces quicker and experiment with my designs and layouts. I had then decided for certain that I wanted text to feature on my garment.
Originally I had wanted to design a coat that was loose fitting with no sleeves, but after altering a pattern and playing around with the fit, I realised this was not within my reach in the time scale provided. This decision meant that I had to think of something that would be manageable within the time period. My tutor and I searched through books to try and find a simple, unfitted garment. This decision didn’t come without complications either as it was a womens pattern that I had to fit to a male figure, this meant altering the armholes and overall fit, this took me longer than I anticipated. Producing a mock up, pinning pattern pieces together, I was able to adapt the pattern further to the two models I wanted to use. If I was to go back to this stage in my process I would have allowed myself more time so that the garments were a better fit, I believe that the armhole shape isn’t as successful as it could have been had I had more time.
Playing around with screen printing techniques and digitally printing, I decided that I wanted two garments, one of which to contain some imagery of the building and the other a solid typography piece. These would be both to preserve the history of the building and show what can be hidden behind an exterior. My aim was to record a time in history in the form of fashion, showing people something which had previously been hidden from people and unknown to even those who lived in Lancaster. Visiting the brewery three times I was able to get a feel for the building and the love and care that had once gone into maintaining it, it was the livelihood of its workers and it seems important to preserve this feeling.
Towards the end when I was printing the final pattern pieces for my garments, I don’t believe I allocated enough time as some days I was in from nine in the morning to eight at night printing, this is because I only had one copy of each screen, the screen had to be washed and dried before I could use it again. I didn’t take into consideration that there would only be one print table available and that I would only be able to work on one garment at a time. Whilst sewing up the garments I realised that the discharge print dress had actually shrunk whilst washing it and therefore I could not use the same measurements for the pleats in both garments, this added time as I had to work out each one separately.
The day came when my garments were finished and the photoshoot was imminent, I had previously booked the slot for the studio and knew the garments had to be finished for this time. Using props I tried out many different situations on each model and garment, all together I had around one hundred photographs to choose from, this was far better than having a select few as I had tried out different positioning, meaning I was able to choose the most successful. I am glad that I was able to take plenty of photographs otherwise I might not have ended up with the best I could get.
Installing my work for exhibition created a challenge in itself, I asked to be allocated a booth, then had to design how I wanted the screens laid out. Deciding on quite an open booth instead of it having three sides and being closed in, gave me more space to play around with the two garments. I initially thought that I wanted one garment on a mannequin and then one hung on a coat hanger, trying this out in the space provided it just wasn’t working right. This made me rethink the layout and deciding two mannequins would show off the garments better. If I had been able to access a male mannequin then this would have been ideal, having one garment on a female body and one on a male, but this was unavailable, so I made a compromise and had two female mannequins. It took around a week to decide on the final layout of my display, moving items around to find the most successful position, I am glad I had allowed time to do this, it seemed important that the garments should be laid out in the best possible way. I believe that my display shows a passion for the building, a personal feeling about the location and I am glad it shows this.
Having a critique with my peers and tutors allowed me to describe my work and why I had created it. They also came up with the same issues as me around the mannequins and that it would have been better displayed on a male and female body shape, however, they said that my photoshoot had displayed that the dress was intended for both sexes. They liked how I had included the props from my photoshoot in my display and that it had tied the photographs to the garments. It was exciting being able to explain my work and the concepts behind it.

During my sampling process and construction of the garments, there are many things which could have been improved, however, I believe my photoshoot and exhibition are very successful and that I allocated the correct amount of time for the finishing touches. My time management during the sampling stage was not as good as it should have been, I will vastly improve this on my next project. 

Proposal

Beginning FAD, I was able to experience different pathways and ways of working. This allowed me to work with students from varied disciplines and art backgrounds. Acquiring new skills, my work is continually developing, using media that I have never had the opportunity to use before.
This year I was able to make my first collection of garments, I believe them to be very successful. I have worked hard throughout the year so far and this dedication has paid off meaning I have been selected for a place at University. During this process I developed ideas for a future project working with the idea of derelict buildings, with the final project I intend to incorporate this theme exploring its full potential.
 After searching blogs and websites for buildings of interest, I found an ‘urban explorer` based in Preston. A brewery in Lancaster was particularly appealing to me; after initial contact and portfolio artwork submission, I was eventually told of the location and given the opportunity of a guided tour. Expecting it to be fairly derelict, since its closure around 1997, the brewery was surprisingly still intact. I now have many primary photographs to work from, using typography and beer memorabilia, but also the found objects. My photographs form the initial basis of my designs, from surface design to construction; they will be what I work from and heavily influence my work. I have already conducted artist research; some are more fine art based, some textiles and some fashion designers. Artists such as Jeff Keen and Elizabeth Couzins-Scott, fashion designers and houses such as KTZ and Aitor Thorpe; will all influence the work I produce.
In my outcomes for the exhibition I intend to create a minimum of one complete garment that focuses around the idea of androgynous fashion and construction techniques.  The sampling and development will use structured masculine features, with aspects of suit style like that of KTZ. The garment will be  worn by either a male or female and will be fitted to neither. I feel that this is a modern outlook on the world of fashion, that clothing can be shapeless but stylish at the same time.

Constant evaluation is essential to improve and work with new ideas which will be present in the blog and occasionally my sketchbook. I will be looking for ways to improve my samples throughout the development of ideas and investigate the potential in the techniques I use. By critically evaluating designs and samples I can work to the best of my ability. Peer evaluation can alter and adapt designs, as they suggest new artists and designers to look at. Tutorials are a useful way of gaining feedback and discovering new ideas for sampling and design, they often suggest artist and designers to further improve work and support my final outcomes and exhibition of fashion. 

Saturday, 22 June 2013

Selling items in the shop

I have created frames to sell within the shop, these are signed examples of my work. I will be working within the shop to sell mine and others work and talk people around the exhibition if they want it.


Thursday, 20 June 2013

Exhibition night

I was extremely happy with the overall success of the night, our show brought plenty of people in, including art professionals. My area attracted many people and I was there to discuss and explain my work. People were interested in my themes and the androgyny theme caused many raised eyebrows, I was able to explain that I wanted to test peoples attitudes and dare to test how people feel towards it. It was a brave move and feel that once explained many people accepted my ideas. There was plenty of interest in the abandoned brewery and how I had come to find it, the overall night was a great success and I am happy with the interest my display attracted and that I was able to talk to people about my work, I have never been given the opportunity to do this before.





Monday, 17 June 2013

Frames have arrived

Whilst I was away the frames have arrived and my plinth is in place. I am very happy with the overall look of my space, but want to make a few changes and tweaks just before the exhibition.



Tuesday, 11 June 2013

Exhibition Space

I have now decided that instead of having one mannequin with a garment on and one hung on a coat hanger, I wanted both garments on mannequins. I think this does the garments the most justice and shows them on a figure. I have decided on the arrangement of the photographs, working with the props that each photo contained, this layout is the one I believed worked the best. I am happy overall with my display, but am still waiting to get the plinths to stand my mannequins on.