Monday, 29 April 2013

Androgony

I have been exploring androgyny for a while and this is some of the research of designers I have looked into.
Nathan Jenden was one of the first designers I explored. Some of his women's wear has a masculine feel to it, the women are wearing suits in the image below. I am interested in androgony as it takes away the typical sex roles and portrays that no matter what the sex you can do and be what you feel like. Times before the 1920's it would have been unacceptable for a women to wear trousers and a suit, the 20's was a massive influence in changing this.

http://www.fashionmefabulous.com/2009/02/london-fashion-week-favorites-so-far.html

Theres something interesting about the change in attitudes of women's wear, but it seems that in mens wear it isnt widely accepted that they can wear skirts or a dress, I want to test this and experiment with an unacceptable world. Testing peoples attitudes towards fashion excites me, I want it to be acceptable for both a man and a women to be able to wear the same garment. 
Looking back at KTZ mens wear the idea that men can wear feminine clothes has been tested and in my opinion works well, they appear to be both suitable for both sexes. This collection is from the AW 2013. 

http://www.londonfashionweek.co.uk/designers_profile.aspx?DesignerID=1047

http://www.londonfashionweek.co.uk/designers_profile.aspx?DesignerID=1047

http://www.londonfashionweek.co.uk/designers_profile.aspx?DesignerID=1047

http://www.londonfashionweek.co.uk/designers_profile.aspx?DesignerID=1047
It is interesting how KTZ has explored feminine clothing on males. I have taken huge inspiration from KTZ throughout this project and the research conduced has heavily influenced my ideas towards my garment and my sampling.

Friday, 26 April 2013

Marios 'Nowhere' collection

Marios' Summer 2012 collection uses imagery printed onto fabric. I want to experiment with this, but then layer over the top of the print. This is made possible as we have a digital printer to print whatever we want onto fabric. Working with my monochrome colour scheme, I will edit my images to grey scale and then print them.
I have noticed that all these garments have very simple pattern and shape. I want to test the idea of menswear by creating a dress that can be worn by males as well as females.

http://www.marios.eu/

http://www.marios.eu/

http://www.marios.eu/

http://www.marios.eu/


Wednesday, 24 April 2013

Ghad Amer

http://www.coins-bloc.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/ghada-amer-003.jpg
Using machine threads I wanted to create a similar look to Amer's work, the white against the black isnt something that I had considered exploring. By leaving threads hanging, I want to main stitch to be embroidered typography from the brewery.

Tuesday, 23 April 2013

Tucker Schwarz

(2008). Contemporary Textiles. London: Black Dog Publishing. 79.

Schwarz uses free machine stitch to draw buildings and features of buildings, I thought I could use his work to influence some of mine. He makes the buildings look complex, in my person opinion he can make them look derelict too, like the brewery. Simply highlighting the outline and some of the key features, Schwarz draws the building with thread. Leaving the threads hanging creates a complex feeling, like there is more to the building than is actually shown. The way he uses different colours of threads isnt something I enjoy about his work and think using one colour of thread would be a lot more effective for my building.
Using a deep red thread to draw the outline of the brewery blend the outside to in (red text and machinery featured within the building). I want to try working with free machine stitch and text and see how this works together, I dont want to cut the remaining threads off from the stitch and they soften the harsh edges. 




Saturday, 20 April 2013

Life Drawing

I went to my first life drawing session, not thinking i would be able to produce anything like decent. I was actually quite impressed with my outcomes, my proportions are good. I wanted to do this so it would help with my fashion illustration




Thursday, 18 April 2013

Norma Starszakowna

Norma has used laying and stencil printing to create this piece of work. She uses muted colours and distresses her background before printing. I have created a sample inspired from her work using an image from the outside of the brewery and white washing it with acrylic paint before printing over the top. This has manipulated the image and gives it a muted colour.
http://emmasartdiary1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sample using stencil print with text from the brewery 

Sample of layering, image layered over stencil prints


Monday, 15 April 2013

Second Revisit to Lancaster

After my third trip to Lancaster I came out with yet more different images from the brewery from alternative views. Also I was able to look more through the uniform brochure and take pictures of the items of clothing within that to inspire my fashion shoot and garment.
Whilst walking around Lancaster I found the Mitchells pub that worked alongside the brewery. This wasnt very exciting on the outside, and the inside wasnt accessible, but the decayed sign was interesting.




I was able to show the full scale of the rooms and everything within them. These images show off how well this room has been preserved, and shows that it hasnt changed much since its closure. Important and confidential documents have been left behind along with folders, books and even chemicals. 








I was able to take clearer images from the uniform brochure within the office area. There remind me of gas masks from war and relate well to Aitor Throup's designs. 


Machinery has just been left around the rooms of the brewery, this is just a small selection of the electricals scattered around. 




Excessive amounts of typography on the tanks and doors of the building. Some eccentric and some basic. 



Sign on the pub associated with the brewery, also left to ruin.

Sign-age on the outside doors, the symbols are bold and the print is clear. 




Images of the outside of the brewery (as previous) 

Saturday, 13 April 2013

Aitor Throup

Aitor Throup is a mens wear designer that moved to Burnley in 1992. Hes designs are unusual and quirky, using 3D elements he works with gas masks and anatomy throughout his designs. Some of the fashion he creates is extremely loose and not fitted, which participially interests me as it fits in with androgyny.
I have been investigating war uniforms and how they relate to the masculinity and typography within the building. These garments remind me very much of war uniforms and Aitor has used helmets and masks to cover the face. Theres something hidden about his garments, like hes hiding the persons identity and unifying people to make them as one.

http://www.highsnobiety.com/news/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/Aitor-Throup-Legs-Exhibition-01.jpg


https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFvpa34su7wAraHjOTyxN0lehDduKJfF9sWuBEdjd75Qojx4YktTYP_YsdwptRa3GeIbkcZ9lpEGwtAwlUpevA9_GbYMa5gTSQsFF11O8dFJyQZGhrZees0A1VOAFSKyUhW19SVzuwUwoN/s1600/gn017564_13.jpg

Image taken from brochure in brewery

Image taken from brochure in brewery
Aitor takes his inspiration from the brands Stone Island and C.P Company, both of which do structured mens wear design. Stone Islands shits are extremely structured and the colours are dull greens and blacks or pure whites, this is the colour scheme I want to work with. 
http://www.stoneisland.co.uk/shirts/garment-dyed-resin-nylon-zip-placket-over-shirt-in-navy/invt/581511837v0020
Stone Island also have a logo which features on nearly all of their shirts, I am thinking about creating some kind of logo for my garment/s.